This blouse has reached TNT status with the modifications that I’ve made over many tries. I document those modifications and adjustments in a previous blog post.
I really love and get a ton of wear out of these blouses. Next time I will add in some more solid colors in navy, black, and white/cream.
Version 1 // Thrifted Bed Sheet #1
Version 2 // Thrifted Bed Sheet #2
Version 3 // Blue Triangle Silky fabric
Version 4 // Women Walking Dogs Silky fabric
| Status | Completed |
|---|---|
| Started | August 4, 2021 |
| Finished | March 28, 2022 |
| Pattern Name | Simplicty 8514 |
| Designer / Company | Simplicity |
| Size | 14 |
| Fabric | Mystery Fabric, Poly Twill; 2.5 yds. |
| Notions | Thread, 90/14 universal needle |
| Machines | Sewing, Serger |
I decided to add a pair of pants to my work capsule wardrobe. However, I knew that first I would need to spend some time on a muslin. I had hoped that these pants would be a wearable muslin, but that’s not the case. After setting these aside, I think I will revisit whether I need to size down, while keeping some of my original adjustments as a guide for fit.
How to Measure Your Body & Pattern… // Lifting Pins and Needles // Youtube Tutorial
How to Alter the Back Crotch Rise // Sure Fit Designs // Youtube Tutorial
1/4” waist adjustment side back pieces
scooped out back crotch curve
need to add 1 1/8” full seat adjustment to back and side back pieces
need to wedge back waist band by 1/8” each side for (1/4”) adjustment
shortened crotch curve by 1 5/8” (front crotch piece)
widen inseam (by 1/4”) at top of thigh and blend into seam line
take out 1/4” each front and side front pieces (1” total)
need to wedge front waist band by 1/4” each side for (1/2”) adjustment
knock knee adjustment front crotch piece adjustment only (1st try)
Method: Singer: Sewing Pants that Fit
Slide pattern piece along knee line perpendicular to grainline;
move pattern piece towards inseam
adjust front and back an equal amount (first try: 1” adjustment)
used 5/8” side seam versus 1” side seams
This was good try at a wearable muslin, and I look forward to revisiting this pattern. I learned a lot and had fun, so this will not be my last attempt at making pants with the goal of perfecting the fit.
| Status | On Going | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| Started | July 6, 2021 | ||
| Finished | (Latest Update) August 26, 2021 | ||
| Pattern Name | Butterick 6214, View C | ||
| Designer / Company | Butterick | ||
| Size | XS | To fit: 32" upper bust, 35" full bust, 26 3/4" waist, 30 3/4" High Hip | |
| Fabric | Mauve, Lace, Crepe, Stretch Satin Knit, polyester silk | (leftovers) 1.5 - 2yds. | pre-washed, wash cold, lay out to dry |
| Notions | All Purpose Thread, 1.5 yds. 1/2" Single Fold Bias Tape | ||
| Machines | Sewing, Serger |
This shirt is intended to mimic a ready-to-wear (RTW) work blouse that I wore to death - despite having 3 of this blouse in three different colors: white, navy, and lilac.
I also thought that this shirt could be a stash buster.
There is one final version of this blouse that I want to make to completely clone the RTW work blouse. That version will split the back piece of the “no hem band” version of this shirt at center back and create a keyhole at the back neckline.
And with that, I will have made B 6214 into my workhorse blouse. Tried and True (TNT) status for sure.
Full Bust Adjustment
Rounded Back Adjustment; took out 1 1/2” (back)
Gapping Front Neckline; took out 1/2” (front)
Curved the front hem on all versions
For Silky Shirt Versions: Combined shirt front and back + hem band to create 1 front and back piece w/ no hem band; used short sleeves from version D and hemmed them 1.5 - 2”
The instructions have you complete a lot of steps in the round. On the second go, I decided to stay stitch and add bias tape in the round. It did not go well, but I also realized I didn’t fully follow the steps. So, I unpicked and went back to following the pattern instructions.
I modified the front hem so that it is curved versus straight. I loosely followed the curve of the back, but kept the front shorter. It required some fiddling. But what a difference that made. Instead of highlighting my hips right at their widest point, the eye seems to move on and up to whatever print steals the show.
What Worked:
Used size 60/8 universal needle for polyester silk fabrics and 60/8 microtex needle for polyester crepe for sewing machine; used 70/9 microtex needle for serger for both polyester silk and the polyester crepe fabric
Increased presser foot knob for polyester silk fabric
Used walking foot for polyester silk fabric
How to get a fabric on grain // Threads // Youtube Tutorial
How to Make a Gapping Neckline Pattern Adjustment // Katrina Kay // Youtube Tutorial
How to Make a Pattern Adjustment for a Full Bust Without Darts // Threads Sewing // Youtube Tutorial
How to Sew a Bias Tape Finish // Professor Pincushion // Youtube Tutorial
(Sleeve Views C & D) How to Sew an Inset Sleeve // Professor Pincushion // Youtube Tutorial
How to Sew a Curved Hem // Professor Pincushion // Youtube Tutorial
I knew I would be making this pattern a lot. For some reason, that is how I sew now. I take one pattern and I make it over and over again. (No, I do not get bored - I’m an advanced beginner so each sitting at the sewing machine brings new adventures, mistakes, and breakthroughs). Here my current versions of this blouse:
Version 1 // Muslin
Version 2 // Wearable Muslin with modifications - mauve and lace hem band; polyester crepe
Version 3 // Blue shirt with shiny hem band; polyester crepe
Version 4 // Silky Flower Shirt, Wearable Muslin with redrafted front and back pieces (no hem band)
Version 5 // Black Dots on white fabric
Version 6 // White Background with colorful dots (red, blue, yellow, green)
Version 7 // White Background with blue / gray clouds, peach blobs, and black dots